Front Brakes Get An Upgrade!

30 05 2012

If you read my driver bio on the “The Team” page, then may recall that I autoxed from 2005-2008.  I always raced Subaru’s, and after modifying them all, I accumulated quite a bit of spare parts.  Most of them I sold before I joined the Army.  However, some of them ended up in boxes in my sisters storage shed for 4 years.  In a Motul box that had been made into an ant house, I discovered two boxes of racing brake pads, STi stainless steel brake lines, speed bleeders, some bushings, a stock STi shifter, and a bunch of lug nuts.  I instantly started wondering if I could make those brake lines fit the Legend.

Today I decided to try it out and see if I could make those brake lines fit.  This is what they looked like brand new (mine were not near this pretty since they were about 5-6 years old):

SS Brake Lines

Here are some pictures of the old, crusty rubber brake lines that were on the Legend.

Old junk  Old Junk

First thing I had to do was use a reciprocating saw to cut a part off of the STi brake lines.  It was a metal piece that stuck out past where the banjo bolt goes through.  It was there for the Brembo brake calipers on the STi, and would only get in the way on the Legend.  So off it went.  There were three metal brackets holding the rubber brake line in place, none of which would work for the new lines, so they were removed too.  You can see which brackets I removed below, they are circled in red:

Brackets are circled in red

I then mounted the STi SS Brake Lines.  I reused the two washers on the banjo bolt since I didn’t have any extras, but they looked pretty decent.  The line was almost the perfect length.  I wanted something to hold it in place so that it wouldn’t rub against the strut too much, and then I noticed one of the brackets I removed may work if I flip it over.  So I tested it, and sure enough if worked great.

Used Bracket

The STi brake lines fit great in the front!  Almost seems like they were made for the Legend haha.  Here are a few more pictures of the finished install.

 SS Brake Lines

I’m not sure if I can get the rear brake lines to fit.  They are made weirdly on the Legend.  It goes from the stainless line > rubber line > stainless line > rubber line > caliper.  My STi lines aren’t quite long enough to make it all the way from the first stainless line to the caliper.  Gotta see what I can do about that.  

Anyway… I still need to bleed the system, but I am going to wait until I figure out the rear brake situation.  However, even just the front upgrade to the stainless brake lines should be a huge improvement.  Especially once I get better rotors and pads.  Plus it makes me feel good knowing that there are STi parts on the car! 🙂

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Finding The Right Car & Building AIV

30 05 2012

Perhaps you want to build your own car or start your own team.  Well to do that you need to find the right type of car.  That’s up to you really and what you deem the “right” car.  Do you want front wheel drive (FWD), rear wheel drive (RWD), or all-wheel drive (AWD)?  All have their pro’s and con’s.  Do you want a turbo car, or naturally aspirated?  A coupe or sedan?  Manual transmission or automatic?  Four wheel independent suspension?  Four wheel disc brakes?  There are so many more things to consider when trying to find the “right” car.

But maybe the right car is simply a car under $500 that runs! haha  Ideally you want to start with a running car.  Take a late ’80’s or early ’90’s car, one that has about 160k miles on it, and still runs.  You want to keep it as stock as possible so that you can easily get repair parts at the local auto stores (or even junk yards).

One things for sure, it will cost a lot more than $500 to go racing.  A lot more.  Yes this is crapcan racing, where we race $500 cars.  However, that doesn’t include safety items and maintenance parts.  Take that $500 car, add in about $1500-2000 for safety items, another $500 (at least) in maintenance and your already over $2500.  And you haven’t even raced yet!  I’m not trying to deter anyone, just let them know what goes into this crapcan racing.

So you still want to build a team?  Well then its time to find the car.  I recommend using sites like craigslist, www.craiggers.com, www.jaxed.com, carsabi.com, and finally www.autotempest.com. Keep on searching.  Make sure you save the ad from the car that you decide to purchase, that way you can show the judges.

Check out this post to read more on the rules and building AIV: The Rules

Well good luck finding your dream racecar!  Keep checking in here for updates.  If you have any questions, be sure to leave a reply or send me an email.

Thanks!





Donate & Help 413 Racing!

29 05 2012

We added a Paypal Donate button on the sidebar to your right. If you would like to contribute to 413 Racing’s efforts, you can donate as much or little as you like. Any donations are greatly appreciated (seriously, more than you know!)! If you donate to 413 Racing, you will be helping them to prepare their race car and get racing!

The names of those who donate will be placed on the car in vinyl graphics (unless of course you wish to remain anonymous), that way everyone will know that you are a huge part of 413 Racing’s success!  Your name will forever (or at least until the body panel has to be replaced haha) immortalized!

Thank you for your donations!

Steven Kornahus – Car Owner/Driver





The To-Do List!

29 05 2012

So since we can’t start the build quite yet, I have been doing a LOT of research and seeing what others have done to make their cars last throughout an endurance race.   I think I have comprised quite a decent “To-Do List.”  Its going to take a while to get all this done once we start, luckily we have quite a bit of time.   What do you all think of the below list???

TO-DO List:

Remove entire interior!
Remove all glass
Remove sunroof – install sunroof cover
Degrease engine compartment
Tune up: new plugs, wires, filters, gaskets… everything!
Change timing belt, thermostat, all other belts, water pump
Replace oil cooler gasket
Change all fluids – engine, tranny, differential, brake, coolant
Fabricate engine and tranny mounts
Clean out radiator, do a flush.
Replace all hoses with new, and double clamp them
Resolder main relay
Oil Pan baffling or Accusump
Fabricate exhaust, and exhaust exit
Fabricate CAI
Install Roll Cage
Install Seat rails and race seat
Install harness mounting points, and install racing harness
Install Engine kill switch
Install guages: oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, fuel
Install Fuel Cell
Install shift and oil pressure warning lights
Install Fire Extinguisher
Install Stainless Steel brake lines
Use DOT4+ fluid
New OEM brake rotors
Rebuild brake calipers
Fabricate Brake ducts
EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+ front and rear Brake Pads
Cut springs
Fabricate camber plates
Inspect/Replace wheel bearings
Cut holes in the hood to aid in cooling
Add mesh screen in front of radiator and brake ducts
Use tons of zip ties to make everything neat
Tires: Star Specs, RT 615K, Fuzion Hri, BFGOODRICH Sport Comp-2
Install window net, helmet hook
Install and mark tow hook locations
Paint/Graphics application
Install radio/communication harness
Install timer
Remove undercoating




Planning!

25 05 2012

I’m going crazy with all the research and planning of this build.  The car is in my garage on jack stands, and has been for about 3 weeks, and I just want to start tearing it apart! But I can’t yet.  See, my parents are staying with me until they close on their own house, and my garage is filled with some of their stuff, which leaves me no room to put all the stuff I would take off the car before I sell it.  So I wait, and research.  

Everyday I frequent the LeMons, ChumpCar, and AcuraLegend forums, trying to decided what need to replace/refresh.  I am also searching for ads that I can use to lower my AIV. 

One of these days soon I will get to start working on the car!  





The Racecar! ’87 Acura Legend Coupe

16 05 2012

The Racecar

The car is fairly solid, with minor rust and body damage as is to be expected with a 25 year old car.  The engine feels pretty strong, however, there are some oil leaks.  Pretty certain the valve cover gaskets are leaking, as well as the oil pump gasket.  Its a pretty decent leak.  The 5 speed transmission feels pretty tight as well.  We hope to leave that as is and that it will last all race.  The entire front suspension needs replaced as all the bushings and ball joints are shot!  We are going to replace the upper control arms (since you can’t just replace the upper control arm bushings on this car), the tie-rod-ends, and lower ball joints on both the passenger and drivers sides; with OEM equivalent of course.  The rear of the car seems ok.  I don’t think we will have to replace anything there (really hopes so).  We will probably end up cutting the stock springs to lower the ride height and also increase our spring rate.

The interior of the car was shot!  I mean there were more tears in the leather than there were areas without tears.  Not that that really matters since this car will be completely gutted.  I mean totally and utterly gutted.  Everything that doesn’t make this car move or stop will be removed.  The sunroof will be coming out and a aluminum sheet will be welded in place as per the rules.  All of the glass will be removed, with the exception of the windshield of course.  The dash will be removed and we will simply mount some gauges and kill switch to the roll cage.  Once gutted, a roll cage will be custom made and installed by driver Donnie Shealy.  We will try and remove as much of the undercoating as well.  I know that will be a painstaking process, but if we can get 50+ pounds removed then it will be worth it.

In order to be safe and not burst in to flames on track, the 24 Hours of Lemons and Chump Car World Series (CCWS) have certain safety items that must be installed.  I already mentioned the kill switch; the kill switch must shut off all power to the car and completely kill it, and must be accessible by the harnessed in driver and safety personnel.  We must also have a fire extinguisher mounted in the car that is also within reach of the driver.  Another must have is a racing seat and 5 point harness, so we will get those too.  Another safety modification that isn’t mandatory but recommended is a fuel cell.  I really want to install a 15-20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk, and then remove the stock tank.  Whether or not we get to depends on the budget.  Brakes are also considered safety items as they help us avoid other morons… er I mean drivers.  Lemons says brakes are free, and CCWS says they can be replaced at two times the cost of OEM without adding to your total competition value (I’ll get to that later).  We will also be adding brake ducts to help keep the rotors cool and extend our pad life.  Exhaust is also free downstream of the headers.  For us, we are just going to fabricate the exhaust so that it exits on the passenger side behind the front  wheel.  We just have to keep it below 93 decibels.

Reliability is the key to finishing an endurance race.  With that in mind, I want to make sure the cooling system is up to the task.  Ideally that would mean replacing the stock radiator with a new higher flowing unit, but that will add to our total competition value in the CCWS.  So depending on where our CCWS AIV (i’ll get to that one later too) ends up, we may have to leave the stock system in place.  I would also like to add an oil cooler, but again it depends on the budget.  All of the hoses will be replaced and double clamped.  When at the track we can only use water as our coolant.  We may just end up having to vent the hood by cutting some holes in it to help airflow.

We will probably run the stock 15×5.5 wheels, wrapped in either Dunlop Direzza Star Specs, or Falken Azenis RT-615K’s.

There is so much more that will be done to this car, I just can’t think of it all right now, and this post is getting really long! haha

Stay tuned for updates, and pictures of the build.  As you can see to the right, we have 8 months left before our anticipated first race.

Thanks for reading!

Steven





The Rules

16 05 2012

 

OK, so we want to race in the 24 Hours of Lemons and the Chump Car World Series (CCWS).  Basically its crapcan racing in $500 dollar cars.  Each series defines that $500 differently.  Lemons is basically a bill of sale for $500, whereas CCWS makes you prove your Actual Internet Value, or AIV.  In order to prove AIV, one must find and print off at least 10 classified ads from the likes of craigslist, autotrader, and sites like that, from each region of the US, Canada and Mexico.  The sale price from each ad must then be added up and divided by the number of adds, which then gives you your AIV.

Lets say you have a car you bought for $500 off of craigslist.  You still must prove the cars AIV.  So you do a search and find 10 ads. Lets say they ads selling prices are: $500, $550, $600, $650, $400, $475, $530, $700, $495, $580.  Add all those together and you get = $5480.  Now divide that by 10 and that gives you an AIV of $548.  Keep in mind that the ads you use to prove your AIV must be for the exact type of car. If your car is an ’84 Celica, 5 speed, 2 dr coupe, then each ad must be of the same year model, same transmission, and same number of doors.  So with an AIV of $548, which is obviously over the $500 limit, your car would be giving BS laps, or penalty laps.  Modifications all have competition value, and add to your AIV.  So you then added coilovers and a new radiator, well now your competition value may be $700 plus, giving you a bunch more BS laps.  Bottom line, bring a stock car that has been refreshed with OEM parts, proper safety gear installed and go racing, or…. prove AIV, get BS laps and then go racing.

I am at the point where I think taking some added competition value may be worth it if it increases the reliability of the car.  Like a radiator, oil cooler, and things like that.  Sure you may get 25-50 BS laps, but your car may stand a much better chance of not breaking down, therefore allowing you to turn laps and finish the race, and reduce your expenses.

But to add to the confusion, CCWS just released a $500 magic list.  Meaning if your year model and make car are on that list, then are automatically qualify as $500 cars.  No need to prove AIV, which is a painstaking process.  However, the car must be stock!  You still have to do all the safety requirements, and you can change the brakes using the two times OEM cost rule, but no replacing the stock radiator with a hi-flowing unit, or adding an oil cooler, and things like that.  Once you do any of that, it automatically bumps you off that magic list and you again have to prove your AIV and get a competition value.  so….

Which way to go???  Not sure yet.  But stay tuned!