The To-Do List!

29 05 2012

So since we can’t start the build quite yet, I have been doing a LOT of research and seeing what others have done to make their cars last throughout an endurance race.   I think I have comprised quite a decent “To-Do List.”  Its going to take a while to get all this done once we start, luckily we have quite a bit of time.   What do you all think of the below list???

TO-DO List:

Remove entire interior!
Remove all glass
Remove sunroof – install sunroof cover
Degrease engine compartment
Tune up: new plugs, wires, filters, gaskets… everything!
Change timing belt, thermostat, all other belts, water pump
Replace oil cooler gasket
Change all fluids – engine, tranny, differential, brake, coolant
Fabricate engine and tranny mounts
Clean out radiator, do a flush.
Replace all hoses with new, and double clamp them
Resolder main relay
Oil Pan baffling or Accusump
Fabricate exhaust, and exhaust exit
Fabricate CAI
Install Roll Cage
Install Seat rails and race seat
Install harness mounting points, and install racing harness
Install Engine kill switch
Install guages: oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, fuel
Install Fuel Cell
Install shift and oil pressure warning lights
Install Fire Extinguisher
Install Stainless Steel brake lines
Use DOT4+ fluid
New OEM brake rotors
Rebuild brake calipers
Fabricate Brake ducts
EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+ front and rear Brake Pads
Cut springs
Fabricate camber plates
Inspect/Replace wheel bearings
Cut holes in the hood to aid in cooling
Add mesh screen in front of radiator and brake ducts
Use tons of zip ties to make everything neat
Tires: Star Specs, RT 615K, Fuzion Hri, BFGOODRICH Sport Comp-2
Install window net, helmet hook
Install and mark tow hook locations
Paint/Graphics application
Install radio/communication harness
Install timer
Remove undercoating

The Racecar! ’87 Acura Legend Coupe

16 05 2012

The Racecar

The car is fairly solid, with minor rust and body damage as is to be expected with a 25 year old car.  The engine feels pretty strong, however, there are some oil leaks.  Pretty certain the valve cover gaskets are leaking, as well as the oil pump gasket.  Its a pretty decent leak.  The 5 speed transmission feels pretty tight as well.  We hope to leave that as is and that it will last all race.  The entire front suspension needs replaced as all the bushings and ball joints are shot!  We are going to replace the upper control arms (since you can’t just replace the upper control arm bushings on this car), the tie-rod-ends, and lower ball joints on both the passenger and drivers sides; with OEM equivalent of course.  The rear of the car seems ok.  I don’t think we will have to replace anything there (really hopes so).  We will probably end up cutting the stock springs to lower the ride height and also increase our spring rate.

The interior of the car was shot!  I mean there were more tears in the leather than there were areas without tears.  Not that that really matters since this car will be completely gutted.  I mean totally and utterly gutted.  Everything that doesn’t make this car move or stop will be removed.  The sunroof will be coming out and a aluminum sheet will be welded in place as per the rules.  All of the glass will be removed, with the exception of the windshield of course.  The dash will be removed and we will simply mount some gauges and kill switch to the roll cage.  Once gutted, a roll cage will be custom made and installed by driver Donnie Shealy.  We will try and remove as much of the undercoating as well.  I know that will be a painstaking process, but if we can get 50+ pounds removed then it will be worth it.

In order to be safe and not burst in to flames on track, the 24 Hours of Lemons and Chump Car World Series (CCWS) have certain safety items that must be installed.  I already mentioned the kill switch; the kill switch must shut off all power to the car and completely kill it, and must be accessible by the harnessed in driver and safety personnel.  We must also have a fire extinguisher mounted in the car that is also within reach of the driver.  Another must have is a racing seat and 5 point harness, so we will get those too.  Another safety modification that isn’t mandatory but recommended is a fuel cell.  I really want to install a 15-20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk, and then remove the stock tank.  Whether or not we get to depends on the budget.  Brakes are also considered safety items as they help us avoid other morons… er I mean drivers.  Lemons says brakes are free, and CCWS says they can be replaced at two times the cost of OEM without adding to your total competition value (I’ll get to that later).  We will also be adding brake ducts to help keep the rotors cool and extend our pad life.  Exhaust is also free downstream of the headers.  For us, we are just going to fabricate the exhaust so that it exits on the passenger side behind the front  wheel.  We just have to keep it below 93 decibels.

Reliability is the key to finishing an endurance race.  With that in mind, I want to make sure the cooling system is up to the task.  Ideally that would mean replacing the stock radiator with a new higher flowing unit, but that will add to our total competition value in the CCWS.  So depending on where our CCWS AIV (i’ll get to that one later too) ends up, we may have to leave the stock system in place.  I would also like to add an oil cooler, but again it depends on the budget.  All of the hoses will be replaced and double clamped.  When at the track we can only use water as our coolant.  We may just end up having to vent the hood by cutting some holes in it to help airflow.

We will probably run the stock 15×5.5 wheels, wrapped in either Dunlop Direzza Star Specs, or Falken Azenis RT-615K’s.

There is so much more that will be done to this car, I just can’t think of it all right now, and this post is getting really long! haha

Stay tuned for updates, and pictures of the build.  As you can see to the right, we have 8 months left before our anticipated first race.

Thanks for reading!